July 13-20, 2017

So while between jobs, I figured I'd get another dive trip in. Seems to be a running gag with me. I was half planning to go to Hawaii this year, but the timing wasn't quite there, so figured I'd try somewhere closer to home. So I packed up the scuba gear and headed to Grand Turk. An ambitiously named spit of land (7 miles long, 1.5 mile wide) and had a great time. The island was so small and laid back. Plus it was the off season, so it was very quiet.

The diving was very intimate and personal, as the skiffs only held six-to-eight. Most dives there were four of us. And most of those were long time almost-residents... so I was practically just diving with locals. If I stayed in Providenciales (aka Provo, the big resort island), it would be a 30+ minute trip to the dive sites. On Grand Turk, it was five: it was so close we came back to shore between the two morning dives. I mostly shot video on this trip, so most of the photos are plane/beach shots.


The first evening on Grand Turk I decided to go for a walk and just kind of explore the area bit, but then it started to raining pretty heavily so I took shelter in The Atrium, which was nearby restaurant, where I ran into Andrea and Eva and we had dinner together. They were a mother and daughter from Ecuador that liked to travel. I would run into them a number of times during my stay: Grand Turk is a pretty small island, and being the off season only a few restaurants were open.

So the first day of diving was good. It didn't start out so well: overnight there were some pretty heavy thunderstorms and I got woken up by dogs and cars a bunch, plus the beginning of the day was overcast and drizzling. But we went out diving anyways. Apparently dives are rarely canceled on Grand Turk. I was expecting the water to be warm enough to not wear a wetsuit, but I ended up wearing my shorty which turned out to be the right decision. We motored out to Blacksmith Rock, which was just "alright" until we hit the wall. Then it became much more impressive as it just dropped off into the abyss. A nice first dive with a couple of turtles and nurse sharks. That evening I walked to the Grand Turk in and had dinner it was a delicious red snapper in Thai curry sauce which was fantastic. The only problem was if you order fish before the sun has set the flies come out en mass!

Day two was definitely much more interesting. We dove at a site called Fish Pond and was probably one of the more spectacular dive sites I've seen yet. It was just coral as far as you could see and the whole thing was shaped like a giant shallow bowl. As soon as we went under, we saw tons of fish and turtles. It was a shame it was still overcast. If the sun has been out, I think it would have been even more impressive.

Day three the weather was much better: it was clear and sunny in the morning. We went diving at The Tunnels which was some nice wall diving. The diversity was amazing and the coral structures seemed very healthy. The second dive at Mama Nature and it was a beautiful dive. Although I saw a ton of fish, I apparently missed a whole bunch of things like turtles and rays. But I had a great time looking looking at all the little details.

Day four we dove at a site between Smitty's and Twin Anchor, and then under the cruise ship dock. It was an interesting contrast between dives. The first I was really cool wall dive. It was what you would really expect from a wall dive. Just gorgeous coral formations dropping off into blackness. The terrain and site were pretty amazing, but I didn't see much. Jill, who stayed at the top of the wall, apparently had a dolphin come visit, but the rest of us were looking at a lobster deeper down and missed it! The second dive was under the cruise ship dock and while it sounds like that wouldn't be all that interesting, it actually turned out to be pretty cool. Most of the area was just rock and coral rubbble. We picked up a bunch of random cruise ship garbage. But between long sections of nothing, there would be some great eel fines and Smitty spearing lionfish.

Day five was only a single dive so I could get my 24-hours before flying. And it turned out to be a "best for last" situation. On the boat was only Smitty, Jill, and Danielle, and we dove at Alien Nation. As soon as we hit the water, I knew this one would be special. We dropped into 25' of water to a sandy bottom and isolated coral heads; and right below the boat a seahorse and a pipe fish! And the dive just got better from there. We headed out towards open ocean, and the sandy bottom gave way to coral formations, and then the wall. We got to swim with two turtles close up, found three drumfish, and had a friendly grouper following us the entire dive! Smitty was trying to lure out a garden eel, without realizing our grouper was still with us: he got an easy lunch. At the tail end of the dive I was looking at some great Corkscrew Anemone and Pederson shrimp. I also got to find my own pipefish!

That evening I did some swimming at the beach and caught sight of the tiniest flounder which was actually "chasing" me around. I guess I was stirring up the bottom and finding it food, but it was funny to watch him follow me.

Another day, another puddle jumper... back to Provo. I pretty much took it easy on Provo. Just walked around the tourist area, visited Grace Bay, went on my quest to find Voltaren gel, had some good food. Chatted with some locals and some out-of-town divers. A nice end-cap to the trip. The next day, I'd be at the airport way early... and then the plane was delayed. So I spent a long time at the airport. So got a massage and just chilled out.

 

Check out my YouTube channel at Mehve's Glide Path


Start of my journey in concourse E I would later find out that one thing hard to come by on an small island: coffee. I never thought I'd miss bad McD's coffee. Welcome to Provo (Providenciales)! I hung out in Gilley's till my flight to Grand Turk. Patties? I found out Turks and Caicos were British colonies, governed by Jamaica, then the Bahamas (when Jamaica became independent), and finally self-governed British Overseas Territory. Turks Head Amber. The local brew. and holy cow 6% ABV! Not really that joyful. Heading out onto the taramc to pick up my connecting puddle jumper. On the flight back I'd be taking that shoulder-wing beauty in the front, but today. Today was this guy. It's funny to hear the same safety briefing. If this plane went down, we'd probably belly land in the water... then I could just swim to shore. Adios for now Provo. So my Airbnb host mentioned she was picking up another guest and her daughter on the same flight. It wasn't tricky to spot them. Hello Grand Turk! Baggage Claim. The rescuing lizards from my room is also becoming somewhat of a running gag. Pelican House, Apt #1. The local dive shop Dive Compilation

Dive Compilation

The beach. It took a minute to walk from Pelican House, past Grand Turk Diving, to this beach. Not too shabby. My Walk to the Beach

My Walk to the Beach

What're you doing up there dog? A map of all the dive sites (from the back of my t-shirt).  I was staying across the street from the Osprey Beach Hotel. A cute little cowrie (I think). Turks Head Lager. Whew... back down to normal ABV numbers. Thai curry snapper. What is not pictured here is the massive onslaught of flies. I was told later to only order fish AFTER the sun set. Grand Turk Cracked conch on the beach. Dogs, donkeys, and horses randomly roamed the island. My faithful steed for a couple days. The dive shop, beach, and a couple restaurants were easily walkable. To get more into Sadly I never got a perfectly clear sunset. Woe is me. So maybe 20 yards off the beach was rocks and rubble. And tiny Sargent Major's (the little black/yellow striped fish). And little 18-inch barracuda. (This is just me swimming from the beach.) At first I thought this was the smallest barracuda ever... but this is a needlefish. Other than the divers/crew, I probably saw a total of six people on this beach... over four days. The water was pretty clear.  :) The Littlest Flounder

The Littlest Flounder

Cruise ship heading out. Most of the cruise ship folks either tooled around on golf carts or stayed in the port. Neighborhood dogs playing in the tide pools. Donkey! A bad picture of a small lobster. Bad picture of an eel. Bad picture of a arrow crab. Bad picture of a trumpet fish. With my terrible photography skills and the partly cloudy weather cutting down on the available light, it didn't bode well for me. We did one dive under the cruise ship dock. It was a wasteland of rubble, but that only made some things stand out more. Eel. Diver. Not pictured: all the garbage we picked up (including a driver's license, some other ID, a handheld radio, some golfballs, and some other random trash). Smitty was trying to get a conch to come out of it's shell and then Andre signaled to me. Literally on the other side of the rocks was this eel. I call this one 'Butterfly in the Desert' Here's how the red filter I use underwater makes the surface world look. CC & 7. Yum! Silly donkeys, you can't scuba dive. Bohio dive resort. I didn't stay there, but I biked over for dinner. Can you spot the hermit crab? Seahorse! Another day in paradise. Parry, just back from her own hiking adventure, texted me asing when my trip was. I replied with this picture. Her response: Ah, look at that nice flat water. Yeah, just a wee bit calmer than Key Largo. Making Friends with a Donkey

Making Friends w Donkey

My sweet ride for the last day to go exploring. Barbie's Conch fritters at Barbie's. The lighthouse on the north end of the island. The road back from the lighthouse, looking west to the Caribbean-side (where I was). And looking east to the Atlantic side. Yes you can see both sides of the island. 1.5 miles wide. Atlantic side doesn't have much in the way of beaches. But I've been told it can be nice... when there's no seaweed. Listen dog. I don't think you're licensed to operate that golf cart. I love the anti-slip chair feet. Just leave the golf cart parked at the airport, we'll pick it up. This golf cart has more cargo room than my car. A Garmin GPS? Just fire up Waze. Sayonara Grand Turk. My layover spot... a (very) short walk from the famous Grace Bay beaches. Another tiny studio apartment, but fine for my needs. Grace Bay. I was sorely tempted to switch boats... but I was only snorkeling today. Found a lobster while snorkeling. The entire extent of Provo aiport (PLS) and it's single runway. Unfortunately, due to maintenance issues, our plane was 3 hours late leaving Atlanta. So I got to sit around this airport for a very long time. Goodbye PLS and TCI The Bight. Grace Bay would be a little to the right. Looking back over Provo as we turn north towards home.